Tel Aviv was another big milestone. We arrived in the evening and met a friend of Rams downtown at the best Italian restaurant in town. We indulged in bread, salad, pizza, and gnocchi until we nearly popped! Then we had tiramisu 🙂
In the morning on our way out of town it was pouring rain. Our pants were soaked and our fingers were frozen. We found refuge in a tiny café on the edge of the city. It was a charming place owned by a beautiful young Italian women. She makes excellent food and even better espresso (she brings her coffee beans from Italy). We killed the grey morning in her calming café. I love privately owned businesses like her’s. The small places with character, heart and pride.
Once the clouds lifted we slipped all the way to Tom and Maya’s house. Tom and Maya are friends of Ram’s who live close to Tel Aviv. To get there the trail went through an old swamp. The mud was extraordinary. It was the slipperiest mud I’ve ever experienced! My feet we sliding all over as if on ice skates! It was HORRIBLE, but worth it to get to their house. We stayed two nights and had a fantastic time! We spent half a day making brownies, cookies and jam bars! It was heavenly, a perfect zero (no miles day).
We’re just passed the Jerusalem mountains and are now one day from halfway! The trail goes close to but doesn’t pass through Jerusalem because it’s such an unstable place. Just today four people were killed there. Some fanatic with a truck purposely ran over them. I hear it’s a common way to kill people. It’s terrible. When people don’t have guns they’ll find other ways. Despite this, I still want to visit Jerusalem but we’ll go after we finish the trail.
Tonight we’re staying at another friend of Ram’s 🙂 It’s great that he has so many friends spread all over the country!
Soon we’ll enter the desert. Finally!!! The desert is what we’ve been hiking for since the beginning of this trail.